Salon Life: Peter Coppola Refinishing System

By Misti Blu Day

 

Peter Coppola is not just a product line. This is an all encompassing haircare brand that is here to galvanize the beauty industry with something real. For me, it is a culture.

Peter Coppola is the reason why the term “unisex” exists. In the 70s you could not step foot in a beauty parlor if you were a man. It was illegal! Women could not go to barbershops. Peter Coppola took this to the Supreme Court and fought for a change. He won the case and the next day, unisex was a word.


When I first began my career in cosmetology, I noticed how cutthroat other stylist were. They would talk poorly about their peers behind their back to make themselves look better and more skilled. They would take clients and keep their knowledge to themselves like secrets. I love that this industry has grown so much over the years and changed in such a positive way. Now, we have each other’s backs and share our knowledge and education with each other. In my salon, we even share our clients sometimes and it is no big deal! I love that companies like Hattori Hanzo Shears and Peter Coppola are the package deal and inspire passion, education and giving back. We are in this industry together and share a passion together. Be the change!

What I love about this product is that is is simple, safe and versatile. Other treatments require you to open the doors in your salon and plug in a fan at your station while you try not to breathe in the toxic fumes and fog up the room. Peter Coppola Keratin Treatment has a step that requires the product to be rinsed out prior to applying heat. This also means that your client can leave and wash their hair whenever. No more waiting three days with a filmy residue and avoiding clips. They leave ensured with a perfectly manageable texture that will leave them constantly running their fingers through their hair for up to 90 days.


Sasha before:


Sasha after:

   

What you need:

Blow Dryer
Flat Iron

Clips

Bowl

Cape

Towel

Brush
Fine Tooth Comb

Prep:

-Shampoo the hair with the Peter Coppola Clarifying Shampoo. Shampoo the hair, not scalp, by sliding down the hair as opposed to rubbing, which prevents tangling. Shampoo once or twice and towel dry hair to 80% dry by patting like you do with a perm.

Treatment:

Part the hair in four quadrants and start in the back right, back left, front right, front left.

Apply product with a comb or color brush. Comb through at the end as close to scalp without applying to scalp.

Processing time is minimum 20 minutes to maximum of 50 minutes. You can put under dryer for first 10 minutes for very highly texturd hair.) Comb every 5-10 min to make sure it is straight, creating mechanical manipulation and tension.

Rinse the hair and blowout their hair out the way they want, straight or volumized. Flat Iron hair the same way was applied. Comb followed by flat iron for 3-8 passes at 350-430 degrees and refinishing the texture your client desires. The range of the passes and temperature vary based on desired results and condition of the hair giving you control of the clients end results.

Follow up with a trim if needed.

Additional notes:

Oxoacetemide and carbo-cysteine are the main active ingredients, making this product an acidic 1.8 pH, whereas formaldehyde and aldehyde based treatments are alkaline with a high pH. Hair has an approximate pH of 4.5ish. Pure h2O has a pH of 7.

Check out http://ewg.org/ to look up ingredients in any product if you are a nerd like me and want to know what and how chemicals work.

You can even do treatments on beards!

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Beautiful Thursday: Truth and Lies About Olaplex

“Olaplex is a bond multiplier containing a single active ingredient, Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate. Olaplex works by finding single sulfur hydrogen bonds and cross linking them back together to form disulfide bonds before, during and after services. Disulfide bonds are broken via chemical, thermal, and mechanical processes.” ~ Olaplex.com

By Danni Gess

 

In the hair industry, there is a mystical aura surrounding this product. Over the past year we have seen Youtube videos, Instagram pictures and glossy magazine articles that extol the products benefits, but is it really the stuff of fairy dust, unicorn blood and dragon scales or is it just another product promising the world and delivering nothing?

Let me first preface this by saying that I use this product, not only on many of my clients but on myself as well. I am a natural level 5 and have an obsession with being REALLY blonde. Over the years, particularly before I became a colorist, I had pushed limits to try and achieve this blonde including an unfortunate incident where my hair fell out like needles on a old Christmas tree.

For many blondes this is a real thing. Over highlighting, too strong a lightener, flat ironing, can create a big fat plate of spaghetti hair.

Spaghetti Hair :  /spəˈɡedē her/ (n) Hair that has a disintegrated  cuticle which leaves the hair feeling slimy when wet. When dried, this hair typically falls away.

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When presented a new product, I am the first person I test it on. Nothing goes on my client’s head until I am certain that it is a product that will add value to their service. For An addition to a color service starting at $15 ($30 for the take home) I wanted to feel confident that Olaplex is something that will bring results. So, based SOLELY on my own head of hair (though I’ve done hundreds services with the product) here is what it can and cannot do.

  1. It CAN protect your hair from unneccessary damage….when used responsibly. When I do my roots, I am using Olaplex. There are times when, inevitably, the lightener overlaps onto my previously lightened hair. In the “old days” this would create some hair breakage. Luckily, having a short funky haircut helps with this because it goes unnoticeable. However, now I can honestly say I have no breakage. To the point that I’m seriously considering growing my hair out, which I will only do if I have healthy hair.

  2. Olaplex is NOT a conditioning treatment. My hair is still dry. This does not shock me. Not once have I read that Olaplex claim it is a conditioning treatment or a mask. So if your stylist is claiming it will put moisture in your hair…refer him/her to this blog.
  3. Your hair will NOT be Teflon after using it in a chemical service. Olaplex has strengthened my hair over time because I use the #3 home care product. Olaplex IS going to give extra insurance when lightening your hair BUT when you get home and style with heat and exposure to environmental elements, your hair gets damaged. If you need to strengthen your hair, maintain what you invested in by using the number #3 at home product. It last about a month (I have short hair so it lasted MUCH longer)
  4. Olaplex works BUT if you are putting olaplex/lightener onto spaghetti hair and expect a miracle, I have a bridge I can sell you! Do yourself a favor. If you have mushy overprocessed hair, go to a salon, do an Olaplex treatment, purchase the at home #3 and a good mask. Stylists, when they come back in a month, not only will you be able to SAFELY work with their hair but you will have a client for life!
  5. Alas, It is NOT made of unicorn blood, fairy dust nor dragon scales. It’s just science which is equally awesome. However, don’t get confused. It ain’t magic. When people start claiming it can do stuff that it is not designed to do, it makes my job difficult. Not only do I wind up having clients that are disappointed when rainbows and sparkles aren’t glinting off their noggin, but as an industry, it creates a culture of mistrust.

Lastly, I have a little bit of friendly advice for my fellow stylists. I understand that we all learn differently and sometimes having someone TELL you how to do something seems reliable but seriously, not everybody knows what they are talking about. AND you are the person that suffers the consequence if you do not use the product correctly. Personally, I did this crazy thing called “reading the directions” and “research”. You’d be shocked at how awesome these two actions can be!

Have you used this product? What was your experience? Have questions?

COMMENT! LIKE! FOLLOW!

Lipstick Lust

By Misti Blu Day

 

1) NYX Soft Matte Lip Cream in Monte Carlo: High pigments and soft with lasting wear that does not crack or peel. This line is my favorite matte series.   Shop

2) Sigma gloss in Lip Vex: The Lip Vex contains a smooth, creamy finish and long-wearing shine for versatility and everyday glamour. Paraben-free. Shop

3) Revlon Color Burst Matte Balm in Audacious: Another great matte series that does not flake unless you are like me and wear it for days. If that is the case I suggest with any lipstick to apply a chapstick basecoat so your lips do not dry out. And instead of reapplying, wipe off and start over or any product it will get cakey and gummy overtime. I love the bright pigment. Perfect orangey shade to mix it up. Shop

4) Baby Lips by Maybelline in Crystal Kiss: This is my go to basecoat to prevent drying out my lips and also for evening, before bed wear. Lipcare is important to maintain moisturize so that you are able to wear highly pigmented lip colors on the daily. Shop

5) MAC Lipstick in Rebel: I go through this color like I do my hot sauce. I am already almost out again. I love this rich plum shade. Hands down my alltime favorite.   Shop

Beautiful Thursday – 30 Day Cleanse?

By Misti Blu Day

 

Sorry in advance, but I just cannot jump on whatever current cleanse or fitness bandwagon is “in” at the moment. It is not that I would rather shove a cupcake in my mouth over a packet of intensly flavored nutrition and yellow number 5 that will make me shit my brains out all morning… Wait, maybe I would rather eat the cupcake.


I just cannot wrap my head around artificial flavored packets to pour into my water and then try to sell the brand off to my friends.  I do not like sweets very often and the flavores for the packets and shakes are always desserty. Slim Fast is the original gangster. Then we had shakeology. Now, Advocare. But first… To each their own! I am not knocking it. It just in not for me.


When I get on a health kick I simply just do healthy things like take vitamins, drink lots of water, eat healthy, exercise. Occasionally I will load up a smoothie with Green Vibrance, which I get at the local health food store.


I put it in my smoothie, also loaded with blueberries and spinach, bee pollen, kefir and whatever other healthy shit I have on hand. I call it the Darth Vader smoothie because of the color. It is actually quite delicious and for someone who cannot do breakfast, it works!


Honestly, the last time I made a smothie was quite awhile ago. I just started trying to get in shape again. The point of this post is to inspire myself and others to get back on the health kick. What works best for me is to ease into it, otherwise I feel like a failure the first mistake or set back I have. Plus, changing your lifestyle can make you drag your feet because it can be overwhelming, which is why I started the 30 day challenge to ease yourself into a healthy lifestyle.


Week One:

  • No Booze! FML right? It is pretty tough considering that most activities seem to revolve around drinking but just stick to it. Let your friends know so they don’t come over with a bottle of wine or ask you to meet them at the pub this weekend. I reached out to Facebook friends about doing non-drinking activities after spending my week at home being antisocial and was pleasantly surprised at how many people were down! Kayaking, bike rides, painting, a good old fashioned movie… The options are limitless!
  • Drink 16oz of water when you wake up. I am an advid water drinker but mostly later in the day and at night. I never drink water in the morning unless it is an extra large iced caramel macchiato with extra caramel drizzle, please!
  • That is it for week 1. I lost 6 pounds just from that. I did a 1 minute wall sit and about 20 squats per day. Since I was not having my typical shots of Jameson on Tuesday and Saturday, I rewarded myself with wings and cupcakes in bed.  

Week Two

  • I am going to continue everything from week one but no eating after midnight add this routine everyday:


Week Three: 

  • Breakfast. No eating after midnight began last week. I think that was my favorite time to eat! RIP midnight snacks! Breakfast was never a thing for me unless it was at noon. If you are not a breakfast person first thing in the morning then go the smoothie route. Breakfast means Break (the) Fast from going all night without food. It is very important.
  • Continue steps from week one and two. Notice that we are weaning ourselves into a healthy lifestyle!?
  • Cut out all fried food and lower your sugar intake. I replaced my iced loaded caramel crack coffees with herbal tea.  

Week Four:

  • Continue ever from week 1-3 and make sure you are drinking plenty of water.
  • At this point, you may reward yourself with a glass of wine or a cold beer. Everything in moderation! Going back out to the bars and doing shots will not keep the weight off. Some people allow themselves a “cheat day.” Icall mine Sinning Sunday.
  • Become more active. In addition to the daily home workout, go on a brisk walk, go kayaking, whatever works for you.
  • Stay healthy. Do healthy things. Think healthy thoughts.

Good luck!

Beautiful Thursday: Are You Getting A Proper Blow Out?

“It doesn’t matter if I do the best haircuts in the industry if I can’t showcase it with a beautiful blowout.”

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A few years ago, the world was introduced to blow out bars. Popping up in metropolitan areas like Manhattan, Los Angeles and D.C., it was a marketed as the “it” experience for professional women to get their hair coiffed in a long lasting hairstyle in a luxury setting. Oftentimes, cocktails would be served while pursuing through a glossy menu of style choices, giving the client the feeling of being in an episode of Gossip Girls where Blair Waldorf could breeze in at any given time.

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It’s a business model that reminds me a little of the nail salon industry. Very specifically catered to a woman who will slap down $35 to $50 a week for a polished and finished look. The funny thing is, salons have been offering this service for generations and the introduction of blow out bars had only created a rise in requests.

If you have crazy thick curly hair that you only wash a couple times a week (because who wants to blow all that out everyday?) the investment of having someone do it for you and it lasts for a few days? Hellyeah!

Or if you have an event like a wedding, a reunion or a night on the town, and you want to look gorgeous but not like you tried too hard?  Yup. A banging blow out.

But are all blow outs the same?

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First off, and many of my colleagues may get mad at me for saying this, not all stylist are trained to give a quality blowout. It seems like the simplest of hair services and is often approached that way by many salons but in truth, it’s far more complicated than one would think. Aside from having an understanding of what the client desires; the cut, texture, density, length, and quality of the hair all influence how the stylist approaches the blowout. Each factor will determine what product to use, what brush, the direction in which they hold the hair, how much hair they take in each subsection, what heat to use. Every head of hair mapped out so that each strand falls to its desired location.

This takes training from a knowledgeable educator, patience and a lot of practice. Sadly, not something all professionals want to commit the time to. Why? Time and money. Blowouts are often included in haircuts or color services which adds 20 to 30 minutes to the hair service so many people devalue its importance.

Time is money…..but quality is King.

So how do you know you got a value out of your investment?

First, you should be able to get your fingers through your hair. If the stylist is putting heavy sticky hairspray in your hair (or layers upon layers of product after you are dry), the chances are, they did not properly seal the cuticle or work the hair enough. A  little serum and a light working hairspray that still leaves your hair with movement and bounce should be adequate.

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Second, your ends should be smooth. Many stylists work on smoothing out the hair (creating that beautiful shine) but give up by the time they get to the ends of your hair which typically needs the most help. The ends of your hair is the oldest part of your hair and is subjected to the most damage. The point of a good blow out is to smooth the hair thus giving it the appearance of healthy hair.

Third, your blow out should last 2 to 3 days. What does that mean? Your hair should maintain it’s smooth texture and with just some light brushing, it should get somewhat back to it’s original style. Granted, there are exceptions to every rule. Some people have over active sebaceous glands but a little bit of dry shampoo at the scalp should put things back in order.

When I worked in New York, the demand for a perfect blowout was so high that it often monopolized my book. Once my clients came in for a cut and had a proper blow out they became excited about their hair’s potential. They were accustomed to that rough dry  followed by a flat iron which left no body. It’s an experience they never had with their hair before and It’s a little addicting.

So, now that you are armed with all this information, the question you should be asking yourself is….

Are you getting a proper blow out?

Beautiful Thursday: What to Consider when Choosing an Updo

Weddings, Proms, Homecomings, Social Events…there are so many events that come up where you may be in need of a beautiful coiffed style. Oftentimes, my clients will bring pictures of what they want,which is incredibly helpful and welcomed. However, there are some important factors that many people do not consider ahead of time and are sorely disappointed when “dream hair” does not turn out what they expected.

Here are some important considerations when pulling together a Pinterest look book of option for your stylist.

Color

Yes, a brunette can wear the same updo  as a blonde or ginger but you won’t see the details in pictures. When looking at pictures of updos decide if it’s the shape or the detail that excites you. Typically a picture of a blonde will showcase the beautiful details in the creation where in darker brunette a, it’s all about the shape. Don’t believe me? Look back at old prom pictures and compare the blondes from the brunette a. If the brunette did a style that focused on details the chances are those details, though visible, did not pop like the blonde.

A blonde an brunette. Same style, different results

A blonde an brunette. Same style, different results

Does this mean brunette a can’t have details? Of course not! Just make sure the shape is the wow factor.

Clothing

What are you wearing?

It’s one of the first questions I ask my clients when they sit in my chair. This can be a deciding factor on up, down, vintage or modern. For instance, when wearing a dress with one shoulder and you want an asymmetric updo, which side do you put the heavy side? If your stylist doesn’t know wear the straps are, you may look very heavy on one side. Or, if you chose a bridal gown because you think the back of it is gloriously detailed, you’ll want to make sure you style your hair up to show it off. Keep these factors in mind both when choosing a hairstyle but your dress as well!

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Extensions, Extension, Extensions…

I can do amazing things with hair. Really. But I cannot give you Taylor Swifts hair. She’s got more hair than the average girl so if you want your hair to have that fullness, you may need extensions. Clip ins work. Preferably real hair because the synthetic kind can not have heat on it. Expect the price to be a minimum of $100 to buy those bad boys but on the plus side, you get to keep them!

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She had surprised me on the photoshoot with her hair all cut off….extensions save the day!!!

Veils, Tiaras and Adornments! Oh My!

If a stylist does not know what you are wearing on your head, we cannot make proper space for it in our creation. Even if you are planning on putting a simple clip in your hair, a stylist should do it. Why? Because once we’ve constructed your hairstyle and lacquered it with hairspray you cannot muss with it. Besides, wouldn’t you want there to be no unsightly pins or elastic showing? That’s our job.

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You are not Kim Kardashian. You are : fill in the blank.

When you show me a picture of a celebrity updo, I will take it as inspiration to make the best possible you…not said celebrity.

Why?

Because a kabillion other women are showing that same picture to THEIR stylists. Each client is an individual. My job is to highlight that and make it uniquely and authentically YOU. I mean, why have cookie cutter hair when you can have couture?

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Still some detail in her updo but we focused on how the shape would go with her dress.

Tell us your experiences with getting your hair done and how you felt about it. We want to hear!