haircare

Salon Life: Peter Coppola Refinishing System

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By Misti Blu Day

 

Peter Coppola is not just a product line. This is an all encompassing haircare brand that is here to galvanize the beauty industry with something real. For me, it is a culture.

Peter Coppola is the reason why the term “unisex” exists. In the 70s you could not step foot in a beauty parlor if you were a man. It was illegal! Women could not go to barbershops. Peter Coppola took this to the Supreme Court and fought for a change. He won the case and the next day, unisex was a word.


When I first began my career in cosmetology, I noticed how cutthroat other stylist were. They would talk poorly about their peers behind their back to make themselves look better and more skilled. They would take clients and keep their knowledge to themselves like secrets. I love that this industry has grown so much over the years and changed in such a positive way. Now, we have each other’s backs and share our knowledge and education with each other. In my salon, we even share our clients sometimes and it is no big deal! I love that companies like Hattori Hanzo Shears and Peter Coppola are the package deal and inspire passion, education and giving back. We are in this industry together and share a passion together. Be the change!

What I love about this product is that is is simple, safe and versatile. Other treatments require you to open the doors in your salon and plug in a fan at your station while you try not to breathe in the toxic fumes and fog up the room. Peter Coppola Keratin Treatment has a step that requires the product to be rinsed out prior to applying heat. This also means that your client can leave and wash their hair whenever. No more waiting three days with a filmy residue and avoiding clips. They leave ensured with a perfectly manageable texture that will leave them constantly running their fingers through their hair for up to 90 days.


Sasha before:


Sasha after:

   

What you need:

Blow Dryer
Flat Iron

Clips

Bowl

Cape

Towel

Brush
Fine Tooth Comb

Prep:

-Shampoo the hair with the Peter Coppola Clarifying Shampoo. Shampoo the hair, not scalp, by sliding down the hair as opposed to rubbing, which prevents tangling. Shampoo once or twice and towel dry hair to 80% dry by patting like you do with a perm.

Treatment:

Part the hair in four quadrants and start in the back right, back left, front right, front left.

Apply product with a comb or color brush. Comb through at the end as close to scalp without applying to scalp.

Processing time is minimum 20 minutes to maximum of 50 minutes. You can put under dryer for first 10 minutes for very highly texturd hair.) Comb every 5-10 min to make sure it is straight, creating mechanical manipulation and tension.

Rinse the hair and blowout their hair out the way they want, straight or volumized. Flat Iron hair the same way was applied. Comb followed by flat iron for 3-8 passes at 350-430 degrees and refinishing the texture your client desires. The range of the passes and temperature vary based on desired results and condition of the hair giving you control of the clients end results.

Follow up with a trim if needed.

Additional notes:

Oxoacetemide and carbo-cysteine are the main active ingredients, making this product an acidic 1.8 pH, whereas formaldehyde and aldehyde based treatments are alkaline with a high pH. Hair has an approximate pH of 4.5ish. Pure h2O has a pH of 7.

Check out http://ewg.org/ to look up ingredients in any product if you are a nerd like me and want to know what and how chemicals work.

You can even do treatments on beards!

Beautiful Thursday: Truth and Lies About Olaplex

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“Olaplex is a bond multiplier containing a single active ingredient, Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate. Olaplex works by finding single sulfur hydrogen bonds and cross linking them back together to form disulfide bonds before, during and after services. Disulfide bonds are broken via chemical, thermal, and mechanical processes.” ~ Olaplex.com

By Danni Gess

 

In the hair industry, there is a mystical aura surrounding this product. Over the past year we have seen Youtube videos, Instagram pictures and glossy magazine articles that extol the products benefits, but is it really the stuff of fairy dust, unicorn blood and dragon scales or is it just another product promising the world and delivering nothing?

Let me first preface this by saying that I use this product, not only on many of my clients but on myself as well. I am a natural level 5 and have an obsession with being REALLY blonde. Over the years, particularly before I became a colorist, I had pushed limits to try and achieve this blonde including an unfortunate incident where my hair fell out like needles on a old Christmas tree.

For many blondes this is a real thing. Over highlighting, too strong a lightener, flat ironing, can create a big fat plate of spaghetti hair.

Spaghetti Hair :  /spəˈɡedē her/ (n) Hair that has a disintegrated  cuticle which leaves the hair feeling slimy when wet. When dried, this hair typically falls away.

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When presented a new product, I am the first person I test it on. Nothing goes on my client’s head until I am certain that it is a product that will add value to their service. For An addition to a color service starting at $15 ($30 for the take home) I wanted to feel confident that Olaplex is something that will bring results. So, based SOLELY on my own head of hair (though I’ve done hundreds services with the product) here is what it can and cannot do.

  1. It CAN protect your hair from unneccessary damage….when used responsibly. When I do my roots, I am using Olaplex. There are times when, inevitably, the lightener overlaps onto my previously lightened hair. In the “old days” this would create some hair breakage. Luckily, having a short funky haircut helps with this because it goes unnoticeable. However, now I can honestly say I have no breakage. To the point that I’m seriously considering growing my hair out, which I will only do if I have healthy hair.

  2. Olaplex is NOT a conditioning treatment. My hair is still dry. This does not shock me. Not once have I read that Olaplex claim it is a conditioning treatment or a mask. So if your stylist is claiming it will put moisture in your hair…refer him/her to this blog.
  3. Your hair will NOT be Teflon after using it in a chemical service. Olaplex has strengthened my hair over time because I use the #3 home care product. Olaplex IS going to give extra insurance when lightening your hair BUT when you get home and style with heat and exposure to environmental elements, your hair gets damaged. If you need to strengthen your hair, maintain what you invested in by using the number #3 at home product. It last about a month (I have short hair so it lasted MUCH longer)
  4. Olaplex works BUT if you are putting olaplex/lightener onto spaghetti hair and expect a miracle, I have a bridge I can sell you! Do yourself a favor. If you have mushy overprocessed hair, go to a salon, do an Olaplex treatment, purchase the at home #3 and a good mask. Stylists, when they come back in a month, not only will you be able to SAFELY work with their hair but you will have a client for life!
  5. Alas, It is NOT made of unicorn blood, fairy dust nor dragon scales. It’s just science which is equally awesome. However, don’t get confused. It ain’t magic. When people start claiming it can do stuff that it is not designed to do, it makes my job difficult. Not only do I wind up having clients that are disappointed when rainbows and sparkles aren’t glinting off their noggin, but as an industry, it creates a culture of mistrust.

Lastly, I have a little bit of friendly advice for my fellow stylists. I understand that we all learn differently and sometimes having someone TELL you how to do something seems reliable but seriously, not everybody knows what they are talking about. AND you are the person that suffers the consequence if you do not use the product correctly. Personally, I did this crazy thing called “reading the directions” and “research”. You’d be shocked at how awesome these two actions can be!

Have you used this product? What was your experience? Have questions?

COMMENT! LIKE! FOLLOW!

Beautiful Thursday: Are You Getting A Proper Blow Out?

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“It doesn’t matter if I do the best haircuts in the industry if I can’t showcase it with a beautiful blowout.”

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A few years ago, the world was introduced to blow out bars. Popping up in metropolitan areas like Manhattan, Los Angeles and D.C., it was a marketed as the “it” experience for professional women to get their hair coiffed in a long lasting hairstyle in a luxury setting. Oftentimes, cocktails would be served while pursuing through a glossy menu of style choices, giving the client the feeling of being in an episode of Gossip Girls where Blair Waldorf could breeze in at any given time.

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It’s a business model that reminds me a little of the nail salon industry. Very specifically catered to a woman who will slap down $35 to $50 a week for a polished and finished look. The funny thing is, salons have been offering this service for generations and the introduction of blow out bars had only created a rise in requests.

If you have crazy thick curly hair that you only wash a couple times a week (because who wants to blow all that out everyday?) the investment of having someone do it for you and it lasts for a few days? Hellyeah!

Or if you have an event like a wedding, a reunion or a night on the town, and you want to look gorgeous but not like you tried too hard?  Yup. A banging blow out.

But are all blow outs the same?

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First off, and many of my colleagues may get mad at me for saying this, not all stylist are trained to give a quality blowout. It seems like the simplest of hair services and is often approached that way by many salons but in truth, it’s far more complicated than one would think. Aside from having an understanding of what the client desires; the cut, texture, density, length, and quality of the hair all influence how the stylist approaches the blowout. Each factor will determine what product to use, what brush, the direction in which they hold the hair, how much hair they take in each subsection, what heat to use. Every head of hair mapped out so that each strand falls to its desired location.

This takes training from a knowledgeable educator, patience and a lot of practice. Sadly, not something all professionals want to commit the time to. Why? Time and money. Blowouts are often included in haircuts or color services which adds 20 to 30 minutes to the hair service so many people devalue its importance.

Time is money…..but quality is King.

So how do you know you got a value out of your investment?

First, you should be able to get your fingers through your hair. If the stylist is putting heavy sticky hairspray in your hair (or layers upon layers of product after you are dry), the chances are, they did not properly seal the cuticle or work the hair enough. A  little serum and a light working hairspray that still leaves your hair with movement and bounce should be adequate.

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Second, your ends should be smooth. Many stylists work on smoothing out the hair (creating that beautiful shine) but give up by the time they get to the ends of your hair which typically needs the most help. The ends of your hair is the oldest part of your hair and is subjected to the most damage. The point of a good blow out is to smooth the hair thus giving it the appearance of healthy hair.

Third, your blow out should last 2 to 3 days. What does that mean? Your hair should maintain it’s smooth texture and with just some light brushing, it should get somewhat back to it’s original style. Granted, there are exceptions to every rule. Some people have over active sebaceous glands but a little bit of dry shampoo at the scalp should put things back in order.

When I worked in New York, the demand for a perfect blowout was so high that it often monopolized my book. Once my clients came in for a cut and had a proper blow out they became excited about their hair’s potential. They were accustomed to that rough dry  followed by a flat iron which left no body. It’s an experience they never had with their hair before and It’s a little addicting.

So, now that you are armed with all this information, the question you should be asking yourself is….

Are you getting a proper blow out?

Beautiful Thursday: What it REALLY takes to have Rainbow Colored Hair

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A soft pale pink, minty green, fushia, slashes of turquoise, and now,   a swirl of blue and violet…image
Damage?
How can something so beautiful be so damaging?
In order for some of these colors to show up, particularily the cooler shades, your hair must be lightened to the palest blonde (or darn close to it!).
I have medium to dark brown hair that is very stubborn.
Needless to say, it takes a lot of time and money to get my hair to a pale blonde.
After my natural haircolor has been lifted, the fashion colors are applied.
This is a double process. In some circumstances, triple! That equates to a lot of time at the salon and quite a bit of money spent…in the hundreds.
After all that time and money spent to get your hair to that perfect shade you want to be sure you have a plan for your aftercare.

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1) Washing your hair should be limited to twice a week and with cool water. The more you wash it, the quicker it will fade.
2) Invest in a quality color-safe sulfate free shampoo. This is not hype. A cheap shampoo is typically harsh and will take that costly color right out.
3) Conditioners and masks are a must! Underneath that rainbow is “bleach blonde” hair. It’s thirsty!

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4) Fashion colors fade faster. Period. You will need to freshen up the colors monthly unless you enjoy the faded colors. Also, a root touch up will be needed if you did all over color.
5) be prepared to put an old towel or pillowcase on your pillow. It may get stained.

With all that being said, I will continue to experiment with vibrant colors  and invest in A LOT of hair masks.

 

Wanderlust Wednesday – Chicago 

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Day 1: Up bright and early to head to the Orlando International Airport on about 2 hours of sleep. Being a raging insomniac and a morning person is no joke! Anyway, I do my usual headphones and sunglasses to portray the “I don’t feel like chatting” vibe. It is all I do all day, everyday. Traveling is so peaceful to me because of the music in my ears and speeding through the airport hallways blurs the rest of the world. Zoning out of the airplane window let’s my mind wander, like dancing in a large field with an endless horizon, whereas at home it feels more like a whirlwind of unorganized thoughts. I dream when I am up in the air and feel like a bird that was just released from it’s cage.  
I fell in love with this cat sculpture at my layover in Hartsfield–Jackson Atlanta International Airport. 

  

  


Day 2: Thank the gods for coffee and gatorade! I am at the Pivot Point outside of Chicago. We learned about everything from history and chemistry to culture and just learning about each other. Everything was very intimate as well as informative. 

Mandatory dinner at Prairie Moon in Evanston, Illinois. My brain is very full! Goodnight!

   

We met the publisher of Modern Salon! So much amazing information to soak in!

   

  

Day 3: 

So busy! Class is from 8:30am-6:00pm then mandatory karaoke at Trader Todd’s from 8:00pm-12am.   

   
 

Day 4:  Peter Coppola went to the Supreme Court in 1972 to fight for lifting the ban of men’s cuts in beauty salons. The next day, the term “unisex” was coined. What I love about this company is that we all come from different backgrounds and different cultures, ethnicities, genders, and we all have out own brand of crazy. The product line is not the reason we are here. It is genuine and unisex and simple. The products are amazing. They make our jobs in this industry more sufficient and effective. 

The name, the brand, is a culture. We want to inspire the industry with simplicity, safety and versatility. We are all equals. We are here to galvanize the beauty industry with something real and to unite our industry with inspiration, education and support. Humility is the secret to success. Mastery takes a lifetime. 

  
At the end of all of this, I found that I have found a family and others that I can relate to. It felt more like a spiritual journey for all of us. We all caught the feels. I cannot wait to see what happens next and where this journey will take me. 

  

Beautiful Thursday-What your hairstylist wishes you knew

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Some of us hair stylists work long days and occasionally do not even get a day off. We are make shift psychiatrists and usually end up doing an extra toner on someone instead of eating lunch. Here are some helpful tips your stylist wishes you knew:

  • Products and styling: When a client says they want a “wash and go style” that looks styled and smooth without product but have untamed hair naturally, it is not realistic. The photos you see in a magazine are styled with product, hot tools and brushes. A haircut can take you halfway there but know that most styles require your upkeep with products and tools. Ask your stylist how you can maintain a look and what your hair product prescription is. Hair does not take shape until it is 90% dry so put your products in and do your morning routine and go back in with your blow dryer and a round brush to complete your look. Make sure you tell your stylist a little bit about your lifestyle so they can recommend a low maintenance style and give you some styling tips.
  • Dirty hair: Please come in with clean, dry hair. If you walk in with thick or long hair and it is damp, you will cost us at least an extra 15 minutes and put us behind schedule, which will make the next client late. Typically stylists try to book themselves solid and even miss lunch and breaks because certain clients take longer, like having a client who has thicker hair than expected or their color is more of a correction and so on. Also, if you have not washed your hair in several days, it is the equivalent of getting a pedicure without shaving your legs or eating a peanut butter and jelly sandwich before seeing the dentist. It also can make the color more resistant to penetrate the hair shaft if it is coated in products and oil. So, not only is good etiquette  but also ensures the quality of your service.
  • How much do you charge? We cannot give you an absolute price on your services until we see your hair. Consultations are free with most stylist to get a proper quote. There is a baseline, however, pending the length, texture, density, previous services and what you want compared to what you have now are all factors in giving a proper price. For instance, if you book a color and a cut and walk in with black hair and want to be platinum and your hair is thick and long, that price is dramatically different that a simple root touch up. That is also a color correction and not a typical color service, which may require your stylist rescheduling you due to not blocking off an adequate amount of time for your service.
  • Friends and family hookup: Friends are wonderful clients but sometimes the line gets blurred and those close to us expect free or discounted services. What they may not realize is that sometimes that $30 that you throw us for a $150 service barely even covers the product cost. This is our livelihood and many of us pay for our own insurance and products, education, tools, and try to make ends meet with whatever is leftover. Please keep that in mind when asking a friend or family to hook you up with a service.
  • Late and no shows: Please be assured that if we are late it is because of some of the above reasons and know  that we are panicking that you are mad at us and plotting your next appointment with your new stylist while have been holding our bladder since we woke up this morning and are on the verge of pissing our pants. I know it sounds contradicting to ask that if you are late to please inform us when sometimes we are the late one. Occasionally it helps us because we are behind and thank god, so are you. Sometimes  it puts us far behind and now every client after you is waiting past their appointment time. Also, there are times I have personally come in for one client and not only dragged my children out of bed to rush them to a sitter on our one day off to squeeze you in and then you do not show? Helpful hint: If you are late, please bring a present! We all love coffee. It helps us forget you were late, I swear.
  • Dance party in our chair: Please try to remain seated and somewhat still while getting your fabulous new haircut. We tend to get caught up and excited to see eachother or are having a conversation with the person next to you and you are turning your head to make eye contact. Though, it is absolutely adorable that you are making new friends and we are catching up on the latest gossip. It is fun to dish and laugh and catch up but sometimes we need to multitask and sit still, ladies. Also keep in mind that your head is down when looking on your phone. Heads up please. And, thank you for checking in on Facebook that you were getting your hair done by me!
  • Shampooing tips: Shampoo your scalp only. When rinsing, the shampoo will glide down the hair and into the drain. You do not need to shampoo your ends. Your ends are  getting sufficient shampoo through the rinse and is  more dry and fragile than the rest of your hair. Your scalp produces oils and is strong and healthy and can handle a good scrub. When conditioning, it is nearly the opposite. Your scalp produces healthy hair and natural oils, therefore you do not need to condition the scalp or if you do you may have an oily appearance. Condition the midshaft to ends which may be chemically processed and often passed over with heated tools. If you have had a few days go by without shampooing your hair and many coats of products it may be best to shampoo twice. Try to avoid washing your hair everyday. Dry shampoo is amazing. I prefer Sexy Hair H2NO.
  • Hair ties: It is summertime and it is hot! Maybe it is time to hit the gym or maybe you just wanted to sleep those few extra minutes, so you tossed your hair up in a messy bun. Well, what you may not know because you cannot see it, is that when you apply friction from a hair tie several times a day or even just several times a week, you are eroding the hair shaft and causing breakage that is not fixable. Many, many times I see this as I part off the nape section to begin a haircut and it is inches shorter. Try using bobby pins or clips instead.
  • Blondes: Though it can be done beautifully, I still consider this the unicorn of hair colors. It is a lot of work, high maintenance and a very proud accomplishment to your stylist when complete. Please understand that this is a process and we very much value the integrity of your hair and want the end result to be healthy. We are not trying to rip you off and we certainly do not want you walking out the door with our name attached to your hair if it is not looking on point. Be patient and expect to pay more than you are used to. Same for the  fashion colors like purple and teal, which is an entire separate blog post. We have to go almost platinum to achieve these looks and they require several processes and are hard to keep in which equals extra appointments to maintain.
  • Swimming: Before you jump into a pool full of chemicals that will dull the beautiful color we just did, please wet your hair in the shower first. Your hair is like a sponge and if already soaking in the tap water, the chlorine or salt water will roll off of the hair instead of being soaked up first. I prefer to use a leave in conditioner when I hit the sun. Keep that hair protected!

Hopefully this will bridge the gap for some concerns you or your stylist may have. Stay tuned for some recommendations for season product must haves!

Contributors: Misti Blu Day, Danni Gess, Theresa Lanno